Amaryllis (Hippeastrum?...)

I picked this one up at (where else?) Lowe's a couple days before Christmas when their Christmas merchandise was just going on sale. I chose the traditional red (I'm a traditional girl, what can I say?). It was $6 and well worth it already. I followed the directions for planting on the package, but growth was slow for about two or three weeks despite adequate watering. Then, all of a sudden, it started growing like crazy! Here's what happened in the span of 12 days, from January 3rd to January 15th.

 The thing grows 2 inches each day! I've been measuring it. It went from 15.5 to 16.5 to 18 and now to almost 20! I had to stake it yesterday, as it was falling over. I've never grown an Amaryllis before and am so far very satisfied.

Wait just a minute. I went to trusty old Wikipedia for a little info on Amaryllis and read that "It should not be confused with Hippeastrum, a flowering bulb commonly sold in the winter months for its ability to bloom indoors." What is this about??? Apparently, I have a plant from the Hippeastrum genus. Here's the link, if you're interested in reading more:

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Amaryllis

Alright, then. Hey, apparently the two plants are pretty similar. I think I'll just go on calling this Amaryllis. No one will be the wiser. Okay, moving on.

This kit came with a nice pot, "compressed planting disk," and of course, the bulb. I'll share the info it came with. I'd like to give credit to the specific brand, but I only kept the portion of the package that had directions on it. I tried to find it on Lowe's website, but apparently everybody in charge there has suffered some sort of brain injury that has incapacitated them all. They have no "Amaryllis" information whatsoever. Anyway...

"1.) Place compressed planting disk in the pot provided and add 2 cups of warm water.
2.) Fluff up mix with a fork.
3.) Place your bulb into mix, pointed end up, so the top of the bulb is 1-2 inches above the planting mix.
4.) Put the pot in a warm place.
5.) Water once a week.
6.) As soon as the bud is visable, water twice a week until flowers have faded.
7.) Blooms in 8-10 weeks.

After Care: Plant the Amaryllis bulb in the garden in May and give it some fertilizer. Take out of the garden in September and cut off the leaves. Store the bulb in a cool dry place for two months. Then pot the bulb again. This plant will grow for many years."

Just for the sake of accuracy, I read up and checked on websites and read in all my garden books as well. One of my books, The Complete Houseplant Survival Manual (hardy har) gives pretty much the same information, just with more detail and with slight variation. This book uses Hippeastrum Hortorum as the scientific name, but Amaryllis as the common name. Eh, it works. It also says to fertilize it every 10 days, and I will when I water my plants tomorrow.

Update sure to come when it blooms. :)

Just Add Ice Orchids Giveaway



One of my JAI orchids.



They're giving away 2 free orchids each week, supposedly one for you and one for someone "nice." That's their new kick: "Just Add 'Nice.'" Alright, then. But anyway, I registered and decided to share. The first link is for their official site, and the second is their Facebook page. I don't have space for another two, but what the heck - just two more wouldn't take up that much space, would they?... And perhaps another two or three from the Winter Carnival at the end of the month. :) Anyway, this drawing is going on every week until Valentine's Day, and on V Day they're giving away enough orchids to last the year - one for each season. Not a bad deal!

http://blog.justaddiceorchids.com/just-add-nice-register

http://www.facebook.com/#!/JustAddIceOrchids

Baby Tears (Helxine Soleirolii)



Isn't it great? My mom calls it the Afro Plant.



What a plant. If you're looking for immediate gratification, buy some Baby Tears. Last July, at the greenhouse where I plan to work this spring and summer, I drove out for their annual garage and plant sale. I picked up little else beside this plant; I had seen it before at this particular greenhouse and had always wanted one. They had one for sale in a 4 inch pot for $2, which I purchased on the spot. At home, I took it out of its plastic 4 inch pot and put it into a ceramic 4 inch, which it almost immediately outgrew. I then decided that because it was growing so fast, I would go ahead and put it in an 8 inch pot. By October or November, it had outgrown that as well and was moved into a 12 inch pot. Right now, it occupies that pot fully. I later read that Baby Tears will stay miniature if you keep it in a small pot... but too late now. I love to see it grow larger and larger, but this summer I think I'll divide it. Maybe give some away, maybe plant some in my garden. It has a great "moss" look to it, and I surmise it'll look great there, but may overtake the garden...

 However, as you can see, this plant will grow very straggly when allowed to. Some trimming with sterilized scissors will do the trick. If you want to, you can take those clippings and push them down slightly into the dirt of a new pot. It's extremely likely that they'll root, like these did:

Pruning Iresine

¡Escúchame, por favor! I finally did it: I pruned that unsightly Iresine... If it dies, I'm gonna be pissed.

1. I laid down some newspaper on the floor and retrieved standard potting mix, a large spoon, hydrogen peroxide, cotton balls, scissors, a medium-sized plastic bag, four small stakes, and some paper towels.
2. I sterilized my scissors with a hydrogen peroxide soaked cotton ball; Cleanliness is of the essence when it comes to tip cuttings. An infection or fungus will be the downfall of any tip cuttings. It's like skinning your knee and rubbing dirt in it. You'd keep a bodily wound as clean as possible, wouldn't you? Do the same for your plants. Moving on.
3. Iresine has plenty of nodes just below where the leaves appear. My instructions (from The Complete Houseplant Survival Manual) told me that the nodes hold cells which are capable of producing roots, and to cut just below them.

I proceeded in this fashion until all that was left were the bases of the stems... it was not a promising sight.

4. I then poked holes in the soil with one of the stakes and slid one tip cutting into each hole.

5. Lastly, I put in four stakes to support the plastic bag and slid said bag onto the plant after giving the plant a quick mist. It's sitting next to my African Violet babies near the heater and away from direct sunlight. Update hopefully soon, and yes... I'll admit if I've killed it. :/



Lastly, I noticed today that I've been getting a few views on my blog. I'd like to thank anyone out there who's read, and I'd especially like some feedback. :) Thanks again.

Iresine Herbstii (Bloodleaf)



May 2010



Here was another incredible transformation in a short amount of time. The photo on the right is from May or June of last year, after I first bought it. It was a cute little thing, and I barely noticed its transformation. I allowed it to grow long and lanky, despite the fact that it should be a compact, bushy plant. This was due to several reasons: weak Minnesota sunlight, lack of pruning, and rare fertilization. This plant needs a rich, nutritious potting mixture which I have not provided. However, it's grown quite tall! Over two feet high, but spindly. It needs to be staked, otherwise it falls over. I've let it get into a sad state, but have recently been inspired to take a chance on pruning it down. My fear was that it would kill the plant, but I think this one's pretty hardy. Most of my other  plants that grow so readily will easily overcome any abuse/pruning/trauma they've been through.

This plant requires fairly bright light, moist and rich soil, and lots of humidity. It's a tropical plant most often grown as an ornamentals in outside gardens. It loves to sit on a drywell and get a spray with a squirt bottle. It most certainly needs more attention from me, as you can see. It's grown probably another four inches since I took this photo! It measured 26".

January 2011

Orchid Society of Minnesota Winter Carnival 2011

I WANT TO GO SO BADLY. I started doing some research on local orchid shows, and what do you know... the closest one is 200 miles away in St. Paul. I'm up for the drive though; I'm all about road trips. :) My schedule may be a different story, though. I would need to leave sometime on Friday, as the drive takes roughly 3-4 hours, and the show opens Saturday the 29th at 10:00am. I'd also need to leave before noon, as it starts getting dark around 4, sometimes earlier, and I don't want to be driving in the dark. Problem is, I have college on Friday... but perhaps it's worth it. Yes, it is worth it. I can miss a lecture. But the weather totally determines plans; I won't be driving the highways all the way there in the middle of a snowstorm.

On a totally unrelated note, anyone out there majored or minored in horticulture? If so, what was it like? I'm considering it, among other things, after I get my AA.

But I digress. I wouldn't have to spend any money on anything but orchids and gas since my uncle conveniently lives roughly 10 minutes away from the Como Zoo and its conservatory, where the event is being held. He's a generous -but intolerant- man who I expect will welcome me with open arms. :)

Hopefully things will pan out. I've never been to one of these events and would love to buy a couple more orchids, perhaps Cattleya or Oncidium. I'd like to graduate from Phalaenopsis to something slightly more difficult.

Here are two links; one for the official Orchid Society of Minnesota and another for their Facebook page, which has many great photos from last year's carnival.
http://www.orchidsocietyofminnesota.com/
http://www.facebook.com/profile.php?id=1106585847&sk=info#!/pages/The-Orchid-Society-of-Minnesota/52958777509

Flapjacks! (Kalanchoe luciae)

 

I loved this one from the minute I laid eyes on it! I was fairly new to succulents (didn't even know what a succulent was) and had never seen a plant like this before. They had a bigger plant for $9, but I chose this cheaper $4 version.

Throughout the summer, it was a great grower and not too picky about overwatering, like some succulents are (I once had a Split Rock plant which had done well until I overwatered it just a little...) Its name suits it, and mine was and is still healthy as a horse. They're native to a much warmer climate, and have bright red rims on the edges when in the strong light they crave. However, here in the good old Midwest, the sunlight isn't bright enough for it to develop that red color; instead, the plant is almost totally green. This summer, I plan to have it outside in the bright sun to give it what it deserves.

Then, in mid-summer, I couldn't resist going back to buy the much larger Flapjacks; that, too, has done surprisingly well in this colder climate, and has grown about 12-16 inches tall.

Around September or October, I saw a tiny baby offsets growing at the bases of the plants! The smaller plant only formed one offset (which is still attached to its mother), but the large plant produced about five. I decided to remove a baby from the mother and try to propagate it. I followed directions given, and the little flapjack looked okay for a few days before it began to rot (sigh...). This spring or summer, I'm going to have another go at it when the babies are larger, stronger, and have more roots of their own.



My first flapjacks plant in January 2011



My second plant in January 2011. At its base, you can see one of the offsets.